Blooming - The
flowers on cuttings were set when the cutting grew on a larger
tree. IT MAY TAKE 2 - 4 YEARS FOR THE WOOD TO MATURE AND SET
BLOOMS on a young plant. The wait is well worth it because
of the profuse blooming, and the long lasting, colorful, and
fragrant blooms they produce. After the plant is mature it
will bloom over a long period with flowers beginning in the
spring and sometimes continuing into the fall.
Light
- PLUMERIAS PREFER FULL SUN, but
they must be worked up to it gradually if they have been shaded
for a long time. Even stems may sunburn when brought out from
winter storage if not exposed gradually to the full sun. They
do need a lot of sun to bloom. They like bright airy places
such as sunny, ventilated greenhouses. Places that cactus
and succulents grow well are good for plumeria.
Water
- These plants are known for their
incredible ability to grow leaves and bloom from unrooted
cuttings. This is possible because the stems store moisture
for extended periods. Water them only after they have begun
to dry, but water them well, being sure that all water drains
away. THEY DO NOT LIKE WET FEET. In the winter they should
be very dry. Evergreen varieties like a bit drier culture.
The plants like to be damp, not soggy, and not completely
dry except in the winter.
Temperature
- These
are tropical plants and prefer temperatures above 50F at all
times. After they are established they can withstand lower
temperatures even down to 25ºF for short periods. Such
frost may cause the ends to die back and delay blooming. FREEZING
TEMPERATURES FOR MORE THAN A FEW HOURS WILL KILL THEM. With
adequate ventilation they can withstand very high temperatures.
They need warmth to thrive, so in very cool climates grow
them in a greenhouse.
Fertilizer
- These
plants are HEAVY FEEDERS. They like rich organic matter such
as composted manures, blood meal, bone meal, peat, and compost.
They should have fresh potting soil each year. Supplement
with commercial fertilizers such as Peters 20-20-20 during
the growing season. We are stocking a specialty fertilizer
for plumerias by Color Star. You can also use Carl
Pool BR61 or Green Light Super Bloom high phosphorus
formulas to stimulate flowering.
Re-Potting
in Spring - The
4-6 inch pot your plumeria was rooted in is too small to keep
the plant growing vigorously after the first year or two.
Aim for a 10-inch or larger pot for the next several years
of growth. Most commercial potting mixes will work especially
with the addition of drainage materials such as sand, Perlite,
etc. and some extra organic matter such as peat or composted
manure. The easiest mix to use in Teas Plumeria Mix or
Teas Rose Bed Mix. Another workable mix is 40% Perlite,
40% peat moss, and 20% sand. Also Osmocote 14-14-14
pellets or other time released plant food can be worked into
the mix. PLANT YOUR PLUMERIA IN FRESH SOIL EACH YEAR with
the stem at the same level it was growing before. You may
alternate repotting with "topping up" your pot.
This involves removing some of the soil from the top of the
pot and putting fresh mix back around the plant in the same
pot. ROOT PRUNING THE FINE ROOTS IS BENEFICIAL EACH SPRING
IF POSSIBLE. The fine roots from last year will die in the
winter. These old roots do not decompose readily and tend
to clog up the pot. With a root pruning you can put fresh
soil around the larger roots in the same pot for several yearsjust
change out the old fine roots for fresh organic potting medium
like Teas Rose Bed Mix.
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Winter
protection - Plumeria
should be brought in after temperatures begin to fall into the
40's(F). Water them before bringing them inside. YOU SHOULD
NOT NEED TO WATER THEM VERY MUCH, IF AT ALL, FOR THE WINTER.
Store the plants in a s bright a light as possible. Although
they will survive dark cool storage for the winter they will
bloom better with a growing season that is extended with bright
light and warmth. They will be straighter and more compact with
bright light through the winter. Greenhouse conditions would
be ideal, keeping the plants close to 70 degrees F. If necessary
they can be stored inside by removing them from their pots,
shaking loose the soil and storing them in warm attics or closets
for the winter. You can remove the leaves, but if you do, give
them an extra day or so for the latex to dry before packing
them away. After the warm weather has started in the spring,
take them out and trim the roots and repot or even plant them
in the ground. You can plant them in pots and submerge the pot
partially or fully in the ground, making removal in fall easier
and promoting good growth in the warm weather. Use Superthrive
to help get them going and remember to shade them from intense
sun for two weeks when bring them out for the spring/summer.
Pruning
- THESE PLANTS CAN BE PRUNED AT ANY
TIME with a sharp knife, cutting at an angle so the cut will
not hold moisture. The plants will "bleed" their latex
sap, but they will stop bleeding in a day or so. Dipping the
cuts in water briefly will help stop the flow. You should prune
them if they begin to grow tall so the blooms will appear at
a more reasonable height. They will branch and bloom again even
more prolifically from new branches. The cuttings themselves
may bloom even before they leaf out.
Growing
from cuttings - Cuttings
for propagation should be at least 1 foot long. ALLOW THEM TO
DRY in a ventilated area for a few days to a week (even longer
if necessary). Use Superthrive to water the potted cuttings,
which should be kept on the dry side in light shade. Plant the
cuttings in a 3-inch hole you dibble in the potting mix. The
roots will have to come from the bottom of the cutting, so planting
too deeply is not advised. In a month your plant should be rooted.
It will root better with bottom heat or warm surroundings. The
pot should be about 4 - 6 inches wide and 4 - 6 inches deep.
Cuttings are subject to rot if they are kept too moist or dark.
Growing
from Seed - Plumeria
are easily grown from seed, but the seedlings will not come
true to variety. All named plants are cutting-grown from plants
with superior characteristics. To grow you own seed, allow the
pods to develop and ripen over a period of several months. The
seed is explosive so you may prefer to tie a paper bag around
it to catch all the seed. EACH POD HOLDS ABOUT 100 SEEDS. Plant
them in 3 - 4 inch trays with bottom heat. Use a good soilless
mix like Pro-Mix to fill the trays. Plant them about 1/4-inch
deep, tamp down, and water gently. They sprout quickly. Avoid
over-watering to prevent damp-off. Plant them in small pots
after they have at least two true leaves. They will grow quickly
and can bloom in about the same time it takes a cutting to bloom.
Hawaiian grown seeds are available from Teas.
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